Fish market, India
Gariahat market, Kolkata
A busy south Kolkata bazaar whose fish stalls show the full range of Bengali fish, from hilsa and rohu to pabda and koi.
Gariahat, in the Ballygunge area of south Kolkata, is known for its shopping streets and for a market where fish stalls are piled with the fish of Bengal. Sellers sit on raised platforms with their fish on wet slabs, cutting rohu and catla into steaks with a curved blade called a boti. A morning visit shows how much fish means to Bengali food and life.
The fish of a Bengali kitchen
Rohu and catla are the daily fish. Ilish is the fish of the monsoon, cooked in mustard. Small fish such as pabda, tangra and mourala are prized for their taste. Air-breathing fish such as koi, the climbing perch, singhi and magur are kept alive in tubs of water and are valued as light food for the sick, by tradition. Chital, bhetki, parshe and tiger prawns complete the display.
Fish in ritual
Fish marks many Bengali occasions. A whole rohu, dressed with vermilion and turmeric, is sent from the groom's family to the bride's before a wedding. At Jamai Sasthi, sons-in-law are fed hilsa and other fish. Followers of the football clubs East Bengal and Mohun Bagan tease each other with hilsa and prawns, the fish linked to East Bengali and West Bengali families. Fish and rice, maachh-bhaat, is shorthand for being Bengali.
Fish of Gariahat market, Kolkata
Still to be written: Ilish, Ompok pabda, Anabas testudineus, Heteropneustes fossilis, Clarias magur, Chitala chitala.